GCSE · Physics · Edexcel · Spec 1PH0

Waves transfer energy not matter

A wave crosses the sea and nothing seems to arrive with it. So what exactly is the wave carrying?

Watch one spot, not the wave

02468-1.5-0.7500.751.5Position along the water surface (arbitrary scale)Height above the rest level (arbitraryscale)
Time passing 0

Time passing: 0. Height of the water at the marked spot: 0.0

The marked spot (position 4). The red line shows how far the water at position 4 is above or below its rest level. Watch it grow, shrink and drop below the rest level while the crest carries on past. That spot never slides along the surface.

Slide time forward. The crest runs along the surface, but the water at the marked spot just rises and falls.

Watch out: Don't chase the crest with your eyes. The crest moves on; the water doesn't. Keep watching the red line at the marked spot.

Commit first

Picture a small paper boat floating out on the sea, right in the path of the waves.

A wave rolls in and passes right under the boat. Where is the boat once the wave has gone by?

Label the rope wave

A wave on a rope
dashed line = rest positionwave travels this waythis part of the rope vibrates90°travelvibration

Showing 5 layers: Rest position, The rope wave, Direction the wave travels, Direction each part vibrates, The right angle

Layers

Explore

Tap a label to light up that part. Peel the layers on and off.

The two directions meet at 90 degrees.

Four labels to learn. Tap each one.

At the shore

?

Reason it through

What does a wave actually deliver when it reaches a beach?

Link 1 of 4

First link · your turn

Out at sea, what is the wave carrying forward?

2
Locked — reveal the link above first
3
Locked — reveal the link above first
4
Locked — reveal the link above first

Be honest

What do you think travels with a wave?

You are standing on a beach, watching waves roll in from far out.

Which is closest to what you think right now?
How sure are you?

WHAT YOU'VE LEARNED

A quick recap of today's lesson.

What really travels when a wave goes by?

What you need to know

  • A wave transfers energy forwards. The material it passes through, such as water or rope (the medium), is not carried along.
  • As a water wave passes, each small part of the water vibrates up and down about its rest position, which is the level of still, flat water.
  • A floating object, a swimmer in the waves and a beach that never fills up all show that the water does not travel with the wave.
  • Where waves arrive they can transfer their energy to other objects, for example making sand, pebbles and stones move on a beach.
  • On a rope wave the vibrations are at right angles (90°) to the direction the wave travels, so the rope is not carried forward.

The big picture

A wave carries energy forward, but the water or rope it passes through is not carried along with it. Each small part just vibrates about its rest position while the wave moves on. When waves arrive, they can pass their energy on to other things, such as the sand and stones on a beach.

Key points

1What travels forward with a wave is energy, not matter.
2Each part of the water goes up and down about its rest position. The water does not move along with the wave.
3Arriving waves can use their energy to move sand, pebbles and stones.
4In a rope wave, the vibration is at 90° to the direction of travel.

Worked example

Problem

A leaf floats on a pond. A wave crosses the pond and passes the leaf. A student says, "The wave pushes the leaf across the pond." Explain what really happens to the leaf, and say what the wave carries.

⚠ Watch out

Saying the water travels along with the wave. It does not: each part of the water vibrates up and down about its rest position, and what moves forward is energy.

🧠

Memory hook

Watch one spot, not the wave: the spot goes up and down, the energy goes on. Like a stadium wave, where everyone stays in their own seat. (That analogy only covers the staying-put bit.)

✓

Check yourself

Cover the page and say it out loud: what travels along with a wave, what stays where it is, and what would you watch to prove it?

Flashcards

(8)
What does a wave transfer?
Energy, forwards. It does not transfer matter.
What is the "medium" of a wave?
The material the wave passes through, such as the water or the rope.
What is the rest position of the water in a wave?
The level of still, flat water.
In a water wave, what moves forward and what stays put?
The wave moves forward. Each small part of the water goes up and down about its rest position.
Which spot should you watch to see what the water really does?
One fixed spot. The crest runs past it, but the water there only goes up and comes back down.
Name three pieces of evidence that water does not travel with a wave.
A floating object just bobs up and down; a swimmer is pushed up and down, not carried onto the beach; the beach does not fill up with water.
What happens when waves arrive at a beach?
They transfer their energy to the sand, pebbles and stones, which makes them move.
On a rope wave, how does each part of the rope move compared with the wave?
Up and down (or side to side) about its rest position, at right angles (90°) to the direction the wave travels.

Tap any card to flip it, or use Study as deck to go through them one at a time. In the full lesson these run as a spaced-repetition deck — you rate each card Hard, Good or Easy and the tricky ones keep coming back until they stick.

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